Vans has grown from its roots as an action sports brand into an everyday brand. Around 60% of Vans apparel is now purchased by females, and it is one of the most popular shoe brands for teens of both sexes. It is viewed as less of a sports brand than a brand for creative people. Vans, like wide-moat Nike and others, offer customization options that are very popular among consumers aged 13-24. Vans has strong potential as it is still relatively small (approximately $3.5 billion in fiscal 2021 revenue) compared with global brands like Nike (about 10 times larger).
It is expected that the North Face will benefit from its new FutureLight waterproof fabric, brand extensions, and expansions of its direct-to-consumer business. VF plans 8%-9% annual growth for The North Face, which may be possible after the coronavirus crisis has passed.
Future Outlook
VF laid out fiscal 2024 goals of a gross margin above 55.5%, an operating margin above 15%, and an ROIC above 20% at its 2019 investor event. These targets are aggressive, but achievable. Indeed, the analyst of Morningstar forecast an operating margin of 15% in fiscal 2024, up from an estimated 13% in fiscal 2022. To achieve this, VF will need continuing strong growth from high-margin brands Vans and Supreme as the virus fades.
Narrow-Moat VF Dealing With Supply Chain Woes and Weakness in China, but Brands Remain Healthy
Vans’ sales increased just 8% in the quarter due to a 10% decline in wholesale sales related to the supply problems and soft demand in China. Attributing the same to the latter COVID-19-related closures and weakness in China’s economy and do not think the long-term prospects for Vans in the region have been affected. The activewear and casualization trends are positive for Vans. Other key brands The North Face and Timberland were affected by supply problems, leading to outdoor coalition growth of 31%, short of the 40% forecast. Dickies was a standout, as workwear sales jumped 18%.
Apart from these issues, apparel and footwear manufacturers are dealing with higher labor, energy, and raw material costs, especially for cotton. In VF’s case, cotton represents only about 10% of its product costs, lower than for some competing firms that are heavier in apparel. Thus far, VF and others in the industry have been able to overcome inflation with strong pricing as discounting in the clothing space remains relatively low. Moreover, as product shortages are likely to persist and underlying demand is healthy, as a result pricing will remain strong through the holiday period.
Bulls Say
- Vans, expected to generate over $4 billion in sales in fiscal 2022, is developing into a fashion brand. It still has growth potential, given its small share in the roughly $120 billion (Euromonitor) sports-inspired apparel and footwear markets.
- VF has disposed of its weaker jeans (in 2019) and work (in 2021) brands, helping to pull its gross margins up to the mid-50s from the high-40s.
- As an upscale brand with high price points, Supreme brings higher margins than any of VF’s individual brands except Vans. There is potential for VF to generate significant sales of Supreme gear in China.
Company Profile
VF designs, produces, and distributes branded apparel and accessories. Its largest apparel categories include action sports, outdoor, and workwear. Its portfolio of about 15 brands includes Vans, The North Face, Timberland, Supreme, and Dickies. VF markets its products in the Americas, Europe, and Asia-Pacific through wholesale sales to retailers, e-commerce, and branded stores owned by the company and partners. The company has grown through multiple acquisitions and traces its roots to 1899.
(Source: Morningstar)
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