Due to the pandemic, all three of Tapestry’s brands suffered sales and operating profit declines in fiscal 2020, but its results are improving rapidly in fiscal 2021 as it implements its three-year Acceleration Program strategy to cut costs and improve margins.
Coach shares many of the qualities of other luxury brands per the Morningstar Luxury Brand Power Framework and, therefore, has the brand strength and pricing power to continue to provide a narrow moat for Tapestry. Coach struggled with excessive distribution and competition in the past, but we think Tapestry has turned it around through store closures, restrictions on discounting, and increased e-commerce, which has grown by triple-digit percentages during the pandemic. Further, we expect growth in complementary categories like footwear and fashion. We anticipate China to be a key growth region for Coach as, according to Bain & Company, Chinese consumers will compose 46% of the worldwide luxury goods spending in 2025, up from 35% in 2019. We forecast Coach’s greater China sales will increase to nearly $1.2 billion in fiscal 2030 (21% of sales) from $601 million in fiscal 2020 (17% of sales).
We do not believe the acquisitions of Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman contribute to Tapestry’s moat. Spade was a natural fit for Coach as both generate most of their sales from Asia-sourced handbags. However, Spade merchandise is priced lower than Coach and lacks its international reach. Still, we think Spade can grow in both North America and Asia through store openings and new products, such as shoes (currently licensed). Tapestry has a stated goal of $2 billion in Spade revenue, which we forecast will not be achieved until fiscal 2030. As for Stuart Weitzman, while its women’s shoes achieve luxury price points, we view it as a niche brand (less than $300 million in fiscal 2020 sales) with fashion risk. Stuart Weitzman is struggling so much that Tapestry recently wrote off all the goodwill and intangibles related to its purchase and is downsizing its store base.
Real Value and Profit Maximisers
We are raising our per share fair value estimate on Tapestry to $43.50 from $40.50, which implies a fiscal 2022 P/E of 13 and an EV/EBITDA of 8. The COVID-19 pandemic forced the temporary closure of Tapestry’s stores and continues to affect consumer spending on accessories and apparel in some regions. However, Tapestry’s third quarter of fiscal 2021 was better than expected as e-commerce and strong sales in mainland China (up more than 40% as compared with two years earlier) partially offset store disruptions. Given this momentum, we have raised our fiscal 2021 sales growth and adjusted operating margin expectations to 14.7% and 19.0%, respectively, from 9.8% and 17.8%.
We now forecast adjusted EPS of $2.94, up from $2.64 previously. For fiscal 2022, we estimate EPS of $3.23 (up from our prior estimate of $2.80) on 7% sales growth.
Tapestry has started its three-year Acceleration Program to boost sales and profits. This program, which includes store closures and cost cuts, could reduce sales of Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman in the short term. We project sales growth rates of 20% and 4.1% for Coach and Kate Spade, respectively, in fiscal 2021, but a decline of 7% on permanent store closures for Stuart Weitzman in Europe and Asia (excluding China).
We forecast selling, general, and administrative expenses as a percentage of sales for Tapestry of around 51% in the long term. While we expect the firm will achieve some expense savings under the Acceleration Program, we also think it will invest in advertising and other selling expenses to support each of its brands. As sales shift rapidly to digital channels, we expect only moderate increases in individual brand store bases over the next decade. We anticipate little or no store growth in North America, but some expansion in China and other international territories. At the end of fiscal 2030, we forecast Tapestry will operate 959 Coach stores (958 at fiscal 2020), 561 Spade stores (420 at fiscal 2020), and 173 Weitzman stores (131 at fiscal 2020). We have raised our long-term tax rate to 19.0% from 16.5% in anticipation of a possible increase in the U.S. corporate tax rate.
Tapestry Inc’s Company Profile
Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman are the fashion and accessory brands that comprise Tapestry. The firm’s products are sold through about 1,500 company-operated stores, wholesale channels, and e-commerce in North America (62% of fiscal 2020 sales), Europe, Asia (32% of fiscal 2020 sales), and elsewhere. Coach (71% of fiscal 2020 sales) is best known for affordable luxury leather products. Kate Spade (23% of fiscal 2020 sales) is known for colourful patterns and graphics. Women’s handbags and accessories produced 68% of Tapestry’s sales in fiscal 2020. Stuart Weitzman, Tapestry’s smallest brand, generates nearly all (98%) of its revenue from women’s footwear.
Source: Morningstar
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