Challenges Abound and its Targets Look Aggressive, but PVH’s Brands have Global Appeal

Business Strategy & Outlook:

Neither Tommy Hilfiger nor Calvin Klein has the pricing power or competitiveness to provide PVH with a moat. Moreover, the firm is dealing with the war in Ukraine, shipping delays, inflation, depreciation of the euro versus the dollar, and higher taxes. The adjusted EPS will drop about 10% this year. Due to these challenges and competition, PVH will fall short on its PVH+ plan targets of 2025 revenue, operating margin, and free cash flow of $12.5 billion, 15%, and $1 billion, respectively. The estimates are $10.6 billion, 12.4%, and $900 million. Even so, its key brands as healthy, and believe efforts to elevate product, achieve cost efficiencies, and build e-commerce will result in consistent earnings growth after this year. Once known as a producer of mid-tier men’s shirts, PVH purchased fashion brand Calvin Klein in 2003. It acquired a second large fashion brand in Tommy Hilfiger (2010) and Calvin Klein licensee Warnaco (2013).

PVH now has employees in more than 40 countries, and the share of its revenue generated in the U.S. fell to just 32% in 2021 from nearly 90% in 2009. Growth rates and operating income for the international segments of both Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger have consistently exceeded those of their North American segments over the past few years. While PVH’s international expansion, its brands suffered sales declines in North America in both 2019 and 2020 and remain below peak levels, which is a sign of weakness in these brands. PVH, has failed to connect with North American consumers as well as some peers. PVH’s dependence on just two brands is risky. Its U.S. business is exposed to department stores, such as no-moat Macy’s and narrow-moat Nordstrom, that have closed full-price stores. However, PVH is working to reduce its dependence on these channels by increasing sales through mono-branded stores and e-commerce. Its five largest customers only accounted for 15% of sales in 2021, down from 22.2% in 2015. Aside from its two key brands, PVH owns and licenses a few smaller brands that have minimal profitability and strategic value.

Financial Strengths:

PVH has taken the proper steps to get through the COVID-19 crisis. During the first quarter of 2020, PVH collected $169 million in cash from its sale of Speedo and raised EUR 175 million in a bond offering at an attractive interest rate of 3.625% (matures in 2024). In the second quarter, it raised an additional $500 million in a debt offering at 4.625% interest (matures in 2025). Then, in 2021, it closed its heritage brands retail stores and sold most of the brands for about $220 million. It also cut costs in several parts of its business in both years. After taking these measures, PVH paid down $1 billion in debt in 2021, bringing its long-term debt down to $2.3 billion. PVH’s net debt/adjusted EBITDA fell to 0.9 at the end of 2021 from 6.6 at the end of 2020 due to this debt reduction, cash generation, and increased EBITDA. PVH resumed share repurchases in the second half of 2021. Before the crisis, PVH was repurchasing stock even as it put a priority on reducing debt from its acquisitions of Tommy Hilfiger (2010) and Warnaco (2013). Buybacks increase shareholder value if completed at prices below the estimate of intrinsic value. PVH repurchased about $1.3 billion in stock between 2016 and early 2020 and repurchases exceeded $300 million in 2021. Over the next 10 years, the firm averages are forecasted $880 million per year in free cash flow to equity, which it uses for about $730 million in average annual combined share repurchases and small dividends (2% average payout ratio).

Bulls Say:

Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger have proven global strength, with the potential for greater sales in Asia, Europe, and the Americas. PVH has taken greater control of its brands through acquisitions, allowing improved marketing and pricing.
PVH has paid down debt and resumed share repurchases and dividends. The free cash flow to equity will rise above pre-pandemic levels by 2024.
Tommy Hilfiger is known as a casual and active brand, which nicely aligns with recent fashion trends.

Company Description:

PVH designs and markets branded apparel in more than 40 countries. Its key fashion categories include men’s dress shirts, ties, sportswear, underwear, and jeans. PVH’s leading designer brands, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, generate nearly all its revenue after it disposed of most of its smaller brands in 2021. PVH distributes its clothing wholesale to retailers and through company-owned stores and e-commerce. The firm traces its history to 1881 and is based in New York City.

(Source: Morningstar)

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