Ralph Lauren has closed more than 75 stores, reduced exposure to U.S. department store and off-price channels

Business Strategy & Outlook

Ralph Lauren’s restructuring over the past few years puts it on solid footing as it navigates macroeconomic challenges. In response to poor inventory control and heavy discounting in years past, Ralph Lauren has closed more than 75 stores, reduced exposure to U.S. department store and off-price channels, and cut product lead times. These and other changes have resulted in strong gross margin increases. Although sales have declined in North America from peak levels, the restructuring, including new merchandise and better pricing for core products, has positioned Ralph Lauren for low-single-digit sales growth and mid-60s gross margins. Further, advertising support as a percentage of sales in the mid-single digits in the long term and anticipate its direct-to-consumer sales will rise to 73% of sales in fiscal 2032 from 63% in fiscal 2022, thereby reducing the brand’s dependence on U.S. physical retail and providing better control over pricing and positioning.

An increasing direct-to-consumer business as essential as customer visitation is declining in many retail stores and malls. Much of Ralph Lauren’s growth came from international markets. The brand is more of a premium brand in Europe and Asia than in North America, allowing for reduced discounting and higher average unit retail. In Europe, store openings in underserved markets to support its existing e-commerce and attract new customers. In Asia, where Ralph Lauren trails some competitors, 7% compound average annual sales growth over the next decade as stores open and e-commerce expands in mainland China. Sales in Europe and Asia-Pacific will rise to 58% of total sales in fiscal 2032 from 49% in fiscal 2022. As evidence of the potential for Ralph Lauren, a comparable American brand, narrow-moat PVH’s Tommy Hilfiger, produced 75% of its sales outside North America in fiscal 2021.

Financial Strengths

Ralph Lauren has a strong balance sheet. The company recently sold Club Monaco (undisclosed terms) and licensed Chaps. It also paid off $500 million in debt that came due in 2022. After these moves, it closed September 2022 with long-term debt of $1.1 billion but $1.4 billion in cash and investments (net cash of about $4 per share). Ralph Lauren will generate significant cash flow for stock buybacks and dividends despite disruption from the pandemic. After suspending it during the pandemic, the firm resumed its dividend in fiscal 2022 and plans to pay $3 per share in dividends in fiscal 2023.Its long-term dividend payout ratio at about 44%. As for buybacks, Ralph Lauren repurchased shares on a consistent basis prior to the pandemic and has recently resumed them. It will generate an average of about $680 million per year in free cash flow to equity over the next five fiscal years and use practically all of it for share repurchases and dividends. Ralph Lauren’s yearly capital expenditures dropped below 3% of sales as its conserved cash during the pandemic. Now, though, larger investments in digital capabilities, store remodels, and store openings. Ralph Lauren’s annual average capital expenditures at 4.5% of sales over the next five years.

Bulls Say

Business trends have improved for Ralph Lauren in Europe and Asia, which is advantageous as both regions have higher average unit retail and better growth prospects than the United States.
Ralph Lauren’s gross margins are higher than those of some competitors and have been improving, as much of its merchandise achieves premium pricing.
Ralph Lauren’s growth came from controlled retail and e-commerce, allowing for better command over pricing and marketing. The firm has reduced its share of revenue from wholesale channels by about 20 percentage points over the past 12 years.

Company Description

Founded by designer Ralph Lauren in 1967, Ralph Lauren Corp. designs, markets, and distributes lifestyle products in North America, Europe, and Asia. Its products include apparel, footwear, eyewear, jewelry, leather goods, home products, and fragrances. The company’s brands include Ralph Lauren Collection, Polo Ralph Lauren, Lauren Ralph Lauren, and Double RL. Distribution channels for Ralph Lauren include wholesale (including department stores and specialty stores), retail (including company-owned retail stores and ecommerce), and licensing.

(Source: Morningstar)

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