Coty’s Turnaround Continues to Progress Despite Severe Inflation and Economic Uncertainty

Business Strategy & Outlook

One was not enthralled with Coty’s leadership prior to the pandemic, which lacked beauty experience, but Sue Nabi, a successful 20-year veteran of wide-moat L’Oreal who took the reins in September 2020, has the qualifications to right the ship. Her strategic priorities are on target, as she seeks to increase Coty’s exposure to high-growth markets where it has been underexposed. Specifically, she looks to accelerate Coty’s prestige division by expanding from its core fragrance portfolio into makeup, build a skincare portfolio across mass and prestige, enhance its digital capabilities, further penetrate China, stabilize its mass-beauty business, and become an industry leader in sustainability. One can impressed by the progress Coty has realized to date, with improvement in each objective despite the challenges presented by the pandemic, and the further progress in the years to come.

Coty is the second-largest global player in fragrance, with a portfolio of licensed brands, such as Calvin Klein and Gucci. Its prestige business (62% of fiscal 2022 sales, largely fragrance) generally reports mid-single-digit organic growth (in line with the category). However, mass beauty (38%, primarily cosmetics) has faced consistent sales declines, as Coty’s brands (CoverGirl, Max Factor, Rimmel) have suffered from historical underinvestment while many new brands have entered the market. One can be optimistic that Nabi’s strategy will improve Coty’s growth profile, but the less sanguine on the firm’s ability to secure a moat. Collectively, Coty has not demonstrated brand strength, preferred relationships with its channel partners, or a cost advantage, and thus conclude it does not possess an economic moat. The fallout from the pandemic put Coty in violation of its debt covenants, but a $1 billion convertible preferred equity investment from private equity firm KKR (which it has since converted to common and sold), and the sale of a majority stake of its salon/retail haircare business for nearly $3 billion in proceeds should secure Coty’s liquidity position, giving the firm the necessary breathing room to allow Nabi’s turnaround strategy to advance.

Financial Strengths

Since the acquisition of the P&G beauty business in fiscal 2017, Coty’s net debt/adjusted EBITDA has remained over 4 times. It ended fiscal 2022 with leverage at 4.6 times, just under the 4.75 limit imposed by the firm’s debt covenants. The Coty’s leverage to fall over the next five years, to below 3 times by fiscal 2025. Cash was tight for Coty heading into the pandemic, given the $600 million January 2020 investment in Kylie Cosmetics. But KKR’s $1 billion convertible preferred equity investment and the suspension of dividends on common shares (both announced in May 2020) provided much needed liquidity. These moves as prudent, given the uncertain environment caused by the global pandemic. Between September and November 2021, KKR converted its entire preferred stock position to common shares, which it then sold on the open market, saving Coty $77 million in annual preferred dividend payments. The firm to reinstate a dividend on its common shares in fiscal 2024, averaging a 20%-30% payout ratio over the long term. Outside of funding operations, Coty’s top priority for cash is debt reduction, which is sensible, given its relatively high leverage ratio. The Coty is likely to resume acquisitions once its debt leverage falls below 4 times, but as it is uncertain as to the magnitude and timing of potential deals, one has not modelled unannounced transactions. The firm will refrain from share repurchase until fiscal 2024, at which time it will repurchase 2%-8% of shares annually, in the absence of acquisitions. The share repurchases as a prudent use of cash when shares trade below the assessment of its intrinsic value.

Bulls Say

Coty is a major player in the fast-growing beauty industry and is the second-largest global provider of fragrances, one of the four major beauty categories, representing 15% of the total beauty market.
CEO Sue Nabi, an accomplished veteran of the beauty industry, has the experience and qualifications to reinvigorate Coty’s business.
Coty plans to increase its exposure to fast-growing markets (skincare, prestige cosmetics, China, e-commerce), where it has historically been underexposed, which should enhance its growth profile.

Company Description

Coty is a global beauty company that sells fragrances, colour cosmetics, and skin/body care. The firm licenses brands such as Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Gucci, Burberry, and Davidoff for its prestige portfolio. Coty’s most popular colour cosmetic brands are CoverGirl, Max Factor, Rimmel, Sally Hansen, and Kylie. Coty also holds a minority stake in a salon and retail haircare business, including brands Wella, Clairol, OPI, and GHD. Francois Coty founded the firm in 1904 and it remained private until its 2013 IPO. It had focused on prestige fragrances and nail salon brands until the 2016 acquisition of Procter & Gamble’s beauty business. This nearly doubled the firm’s revenue base, and launched it into mass-channel cosmetics and professional hair care.

(Source: Morningstar)

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