Burberry and its leather goods and apparel peers could make existing customers buy more through product innovation

Business Strategy and Outlook

Burberry Group has transformed from an essentially licensed/wholesale business model with inconsistent regional product and brand presentation into a strong monobrand luxury player with a consistent message, good control over distribution, and a global presence. Burberry is the category leader in its trench coat business, enabling it to generate high operating margins in this category through scale and pricing power. It benefits from a high degree of control over distribution, which allows it to correct operational mistakes more quickly, showcase the brand at key locations in global capitals, avoid excessive discounting, and retain stronger negotiating clout with wholesale partners. Although prior-year retail expansion and rent inflation have weighed on margins, Burberry has built an excellent global platform from which to execute. As space expansion is essentially flat and new demand comes from existing stores and online platforms, operating margins and cash flows should be boosted.

Burberry was one of the first in the market to invest in digital front and back-office systems. It aggregates customer data across channels and regions, which helps it target marketing campaigns better and can act as an input in product development and merchandising. While demand for luxury products is linked to GDP growth and an increasing number of wealthy and middle-class people, Burberry and its leather goods and apparel peers could make existing customers buy more through product innovation. In the long run, growth should come from China, consumption should be supported by growing employment in high-wage sectors.

Financial Strength

Like many of its luxury peers, Burberry is in a strong financial position with net cash of GBP 1.2 billion as of the end of March 2022. Burberry is strongly positioned to weather the COVID-19-related crisis and potential demand slowdown through high inflation. Burberry is a cash-generative business and has historically funded growth investments from operating cash flows. Burberry will continue doing so and be able to reward shareholders through dividend and buybacks.

Bulls Say’s

Over the past 10 years, Burberry has built a strong global brand with control over its supply chain, distribution, and marketing. It also substantially reduced discounting, which should support the brand’s luxury image.
New designer collections have been positively received (full-price comparable sales up by double digits on 2019 level), which should boost performance once pandemic restrictions are removed.
Cash flow margins should improve through operating expenditure leverage and capital expenditure reduction, as the brand returns to growth off the same store base.

Company Profile

Burberry, a British luxury monobrand, which is more than 160 years old, is best known for its outerwear and signature plaid. It has a global presence with 29% of revenue generated in Europe, 46% in Asia, and 25% in North America. The Chinese are Burberry’s most important customers, accounting for more than 30% of sales. Apparel contributes about 63% of sales.

(Source: MorningStar)

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