While Estee Lauder Is Affected by China’s COVID-19 Restrictions, Disruption Should Be Short-Lived

Business Strategy & Outlook

The Estee Lauder has earned a wide moat, based on its valuable portfolio of global leading brands, its preferred status with its channel partners in department stores, specialty beauty outlets, travel retail locations, and a scale-based cost advantage.

Although the pandemic is presenting challenges for Estee and its peers, one can be optimistic about its competitive position and long-term strategy. Estee has made significant investments in omnichannel, marketing, and innovations that are helping the firm recover briskly from the pandemic and the subsequent inflation and supply chain disruptions. The firm’s growth opportunities should persist over the long term as emerging markets (a third of sales) still spend significantly less than developed markets on prestige beauty. Per Euromonitor, average annual per capita spend on prestige beauty in 2021 was $104 in the U.S., $114 in South Korea, $22 in China, $6 in Brazil, and $1 in India. Estee also has significant opportunity to expand its brands geographically. This opportunity is particularly pronounced in the context of its brand reach, as nearly all of its 30 brands are sold in the U.S., but only 15 have launched in China, 10 in India, and nine in Brazil.

Despite its solid competitive standing, Estee isn’t immune to headwinds. Even prior to COVID-19, Estee had been struggling with its large exposure to global department stores as the channel faces declining traffic from consumers shifting their purchases to other outlets. However, the firm has been proactively diversifying its channel reach, developing a strong presence in e-commerce (28% of sales) and specialty beauty. In the next few years, Estee will accelerate these efforts with the implementation of its post-COVID-19 business acceleration plan. This will result in the closure of 10%-15% of freestanding stores and some unproductive department store counters, elimination of 3.5% of jobs, and realigning of the distribution network, resulting in annual savings of $300 million-$400 million, a portion of which will be reinvested in e-commerce, omnichannel, and digital marketing capabilities.

Financial Strengths

Estee Lauder has traditionally carried a very low level of debt. Net debt to adjusted EBITDA has consistently remained less than one (averaging 0.2 times over the past 10 years), and this metric to remain low, with Estee holding more cash than debt on average over the next five years. As such, EBITDA interest coverage has been more than sufficient, averaging 16 times over the past three years, and to average 31 times over the next five years. The Estee has ample liquidity to weather disruptions from the pandemic and its aftershocks, with $6.3 billion in cash and available liquidity as of March. The firm’s stated and demonstrated priorities for its robust generation of free cash flow to the firm (midteen percentage of sales over the 10-year forecast, versus high single digits on average the past three years due to the pandemic) are to invest in organic growth, acquire compelling businesses should the opportunity arise, and return cash to shareholders. The Estee to average 4%-5% of revenue toward capital expenditures each year, in line with historical averages. In an effort to conserve cash during the pandemic, Estee suspended the June 2020 dividend (which conserved $170 million), reinstated it the following quarter at the previous $0.48, and has since increased it to $0.60. Over the long term, dividends will grow 13% annually, generally in line with earnings growth, maintaining a 30%-40% payout ratio. No one can modeling unannounced acquisitions as the timing and magnitude is very difficult to predict. Instead, the model excess cash is used to repurchase shares (1%-2% of outstanding shares annually, or about $1.5 billion-$2.5 billion, about double the average directed toward buybacks each year since fiscal 2015), which as prudent when shares trade below the assessment of its intrinsic val

Bulls Say

The firm has many available levers for growth, given the rise of the global middle class, China’s beauty consumption expanding from skincare into makeup, fragrance and haircare, and geographic expansion opportunities for the firm’s portfolio of strong brands.

Estee Lauder, as a prestige beauty pure play, is best positioned to benefit from consumers trading up from mass to prestige, which is occurring across the globe.

Estee Lauder is aggressively investing in the more profitable e-commerce channel, adapting to evolving consumer preferences, while simultaneously enhancing its margins

Company Description

Estee Lauder is the world leader in the global prestige beauty market, participating across skincare (59% of fiscal 2021 sales), makeup (26%), fragrance (12%), and haircare (3%) categories, with popular brands such as Estee Lauder, Clinique, MAC, La Mer, Jo Malone, Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Too Faced, Origins, Dr. Jart+, and The Ordinary. The firm operates in 150 countries, with 23% of fiscal 2021 revenue stemming from the Americas, 43% from Europe, the Middle East and Africa, and 34% from Asia-Pacific. The company sells its products through department stores, travel retail, multibrand specialty beauty stores, brand-dedicated freestanding stores, e-commerce, salons/spas, and perfumeries.

(Source: Morningstar)

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